I like to think I’m hardy.
Not in a brawny or burly manner.
Perhaps not even in an entirely able-bodied fashion. My flailing eyesight,
flagging endurance and spindly limbs, discounts me from passing myself off as
the robust sort.
But I always thought I have a
tenacious temperament, brimming with fortitude and generally mental mucilaginous.
Then I read ‘Last Seen in Lhasa’ by
Claire Scobie and realized that I am in no way hardy. Especially compared to
Ani, a Tibetan nun. The memoir charts the unlikely friendship that develops
between English journalist Scobie and Ani.
I’m the sort that hates to spend too
much time alone and generally feel compelled to colour in silences with idle
chitchat. Whereas Ani retreats into mountain top caves, for months of silent
meditation. I doubt I would physically or mentally last a day.
Scobie initially travels to Tibet, as
part of an expedition in search of a rare red lily. Ani is invited as a
spiritual guide, as the region they are travelling through is a sacred site for
pilgrims "Pemako was a nebulous place…a spiritualscape
where legend merged with truth."
This expedition is cut short due to
political bureaucracy, Scobie returns a few months later to find the flower. During
this second visit Scobie becomes eager to learn more about the mysterious nun.
Ani is a yogini “a woman
who undertakes physically and psychologically demanding practices”. Including
Chod:
“way to sever emotions such as
hatred, desire and ignorance to...limit one's attachment to the physical body
and the inherent fear of dying.... 'chod is a short path to enlightenment,'
writes Phillip Dawson, 'a vivid enactment of self-sacrifice.' It involves
visualizing one's body and brain 'being totally dismembered, smashed, crushed
and herded to a bloody pulp' before calling upon the spirits or hungry ghosts
to devour it.'”
Ani is an extraordinarily resilient
physically and mentally, it's no wonder Scobie becomes consumed with thoughts
of her and revisits her several times.
'Over the years Ani, in my mind, had
become whatever I imagined her to be - my teacher, my soul mate, spirit sister,
cho-drok or pilgrim friend - my heroine no less.'
Not only apt in describing the
metaphysical, Scobie deftly captures the tremendous physicality of Tibet, its
unique sights, smells and sounds.
'The sounds of prayers rising, the
smell of unwashed bodies and saccharine aroma from the butter lamps contributed
to the heady atmosphere.'
Reading this instantly transported
back to the temples we explored, moving through the dark labyrinth of corridors
in clockwise fashion. At the time I was only aware that this was protocol. Scobie
describes this protocol as Kora, a moving meditation, which earns the
practitioner Spiritual power otherwise known as Wang.
I now understand the bullrush in
temples, as nomads pushed and scrambled past us to get through the narrow
doorways. Racing up and down ladders, they completed the clockwise circuit as
quickly as possible so they could repeat it again and again.
Scobie visits to Tibet coincide with
great political turmoil in the region. Scobie weaves fact, history, context and
emotion into the narrative. Through her friendships, Scobie access into Tibetan
society and how it was changing as a result of the presence of the Chinese.
This insight is something outsiders are rarely privy to, especially given the
heavy military control and surveillance present
"I asked ani if she ever felt hatred
towards the Chinese for what they had done in Tibet.
'It’s Tibetans' bad karma - including
my own - from previous lives that has lead to the present situation.'
Not only informative, its
strong narrative thread makes it highly readable. In fact I thought I seen
enough of Tibet when I was there last year, but after reading this I am itching
to go back and explore some more.
No comments:
Post a Comment